Baracoa, the food and chocolate capital of Cuba was only accessible by sea, until ~50 years ago. It is still very remote, gorgeous and now accessible by land via a two lane road called La Farola which winds through the Sierra de Purial mountains (Fidel Castro commissioned this road in 1965 to thank Baracoenses for their support during the revolution).
So What Makes Baracoa Different? The Taíno Influence
Most history books (within and outside of Cuba) have erased indigenous Taíno Indians and their culture from the island. However, the resilient Taínos of Cuba used the mountains to hide and defend from colonizers, which is why their heritage and people are very much alive today, despite popular belief. It is because of this Taíno influence that the food in Baracoa is so distinct.
Many Cubans have heard about Baracoa, since it is the “oldest” colonized city in Cuba (Plainspeak: It’s the first spot on the island that the mofo Columbus “discovered” in 1492 and planted a cross). But even within Cuba, few have ventured there. Due to its geographical remoteness, Baracoa runs at a different pace and maintains a separate cultural identity than other parts of Cuba.
Unique Baracoan Cuisine
Baracoenses have a different palate than other Cubans. It is steeped in coconut milk and chocolate. Unfortunately, I was unable to try *everything*, but I ate a lot. Next time, I am determined to find and try tetí, a small local fish that is only found in Baracoa.
Here are 5 Must Eats That I Still Crave
1) Cucurucho
Apparently, the only place in the world that you can find cucurucho is on La Farola to Baracoa (or in villages within the mountains). It is made and sold by campesinos (farmers) in the region and sold on the side of the road. Our bus driver made a stop and we devoured our cucurucho cones in a hot minute.
Each cone is made with a mix of dried coconut, honey, papaya, guayaba, mandarin oranges and nuts, which are blended together over a fire and then stuffed into palm leaves.
The mix of smoky and sweet is like nothing I have ever tasted and it was DELICIOUS and completely unforgettable.
2) Mojitos
Ok, Cuba created mojitos. They are all over the place. But all mojitos are not created equal. I swear, you will not find another on the island like the one concocted by the doctors who run Casa Yamicel, the casa particular that we stayed at. They are known for them.
It is all about the yerbabuena (wild mint) that they use. It tastes more like oregano than the classic mint
3) Pescado con Leche de Coco
This is a typical baracoense dish.
It is a fish fillet served in coconut milk with spices and veggies. It is both rich and light and seriously perfect on a rooftop with the warm wind blowing at night. We had this at our casa particular and at Restaurant Las Terrazas de Casa Nilson.
4) Chorote
As mentioned before, Baracoa is also the chocolate capital of Cuba. There is a chocolate drink, chorote, that is ubiquitous throughout the city.
It is a mix of Baracoan cocoa, coconut milk, cinammon and bananina (plantain flour). It tastes like a silky, smoky, hot chocolate. It is so perfect at breakfast.
5) Bacán de Cangrejo
I adore crab and this dish is reminiscent of both Mexican tamales and Sri Lankan lamprais (minus the heat).
It is made with raw green plantain, crabmeat, egg, garlic, naranja agria (bitter orange) and spices, mashed together, cooked for over an hour and then wrapped in a banana leaf. It’s a no brainer.
** Oh, La Cruz de La Parra (The Sacred Cross of Parra) still exists in the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in Baracoa’s main square. It is the only remaining cross (of the original 29) that still exists from Columbus’s first voyage to the colonized world in 1492. Surprisingly, I didn’t leave that church as depressed as I thought I would be. Instead, I left optimistic thanks to the Bust of Hatuey that literally stands 20 steps from the church entrance. It feels like a face-off when you stand between the two. Hatuey was a legendary Taíno cacique (chief) who was burned at the stake in 1512 by the Spaniards for refusing to convert to Christianity. Friar Bartalomé Las Casas (known for his liberation theology) recorded the horrific Spanish invasion, including Hatuey’s last words. Hatuey’s name and memory are still revered throughout Cuba – you see his namesake on beer, cigars, water, all over. Cuban students honor Hatuey and the anecdote of his last conversation is repeated in classrooms throughout Cuba.
Have you been to Baracoa? Did I Miss Anything?
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